101 Things to Do in LA: Desert Road Trip, Vol. 3

A joshua tree at Keys View, Joshua Tree National Park. Photo copyright 2018, Anna Boudinot.

Joshua Tree National Park is not the first thing that comes to mind for most when planning a day trip from Los Angeles, and I can’t for the life of me figure out why. Its beauty is nearly indescribable; its rare plants and rock formations are so unusual you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped onto another planet. When it was declared a National Park by the California Desert Protection Act of 1994, it was described as “a public wildland resource of extraordinary and inestimable value for current and future generations; these desert wildlands have unique scenic, historical, archeological, environmental, ecological, wildlife, cultural, scientific, educational and recreational values.”

I’m here to enumerate some of those values and encourage you to make this another destination on your Desert Road Trip.

First of all: what is a joshua tree? It’s part of the yucca family and is found in California, Arizona, Utah, and Nevada, mostly in the Mojave Desert. Because Joshua Tree National Park is a site where the Colorado Desert and the Mojave Desert converge, stick to the north side (the Mojave side) of the park if you want to glimpse a joshua tree. They can grow up to 50 feet and live for hundreds of years, their roots reaching lengths of 36 feet. They were named by Mormon settlers in the mid-19th century who felt they resembled Joshua raising his hands in prayer. You can check out some photos in my Flickr album here.

Cholla Cactus Garden, Joshua Tree National Park. Photo copyright 2018, Anna Boudinot

Another otherworldly sight you’ll notice at Joshua Tree (and in the aforementioned photo album) are its rock formations, which look like piles of boulders and bizarre rectangular stones perfectly balanced atop one another. These are “plutonic intrusions” of monzogranite, and were created more than 100 million years ago by cooling magma. This page on the Park website can better explain it to you.

One of the best parts about Joshua Tree, other than it being a mere 2-2.5 hour drive from Los Angeles, is that it has something for everyone. If you’re not an outdoorsy type and you just want to drive along the paved roads and park in clearly-marked parking lots to photograph the magnificent scenery, there are plenty of places to do that. Wildflowers in the spring are stunning. Nature trails are easy walks meant for those who aren’t willing or able to embark on rigorous hikes.

Beavertail cactus in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo copyright 2018, Anna Boudinot

One of the more interesting nature trails is Barker Dam, the site of an old dam built by cattle ranchers. The trail winds through an area where petroglyphs can be seen on a rock formation. As the story goes, some of the symbols are originals from Native Americans, and some were added by film crews shooting westerns before the area became a National Park. In recent years the National Park Service has had to restrict access due to concerns over vandalism, so please act like a decent human being so this area can stay open to the public.

If you want to go horseback riding, camping, rock climbing, bouldering, stargazing, or hiking, you’ll be in heaven. Campsites fill up fast in the cooler months; Black Rock Campground is nice for those who want flush toilets and backcountry camping is available for those with more rugged proclivities. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees, so check the weather and consider planning your trip for the spring, winter, or fall.

I’ve done several hikes at Joshua Tree. Modern Hiker has great write-ups on many of them, and the map you’ll get when you enter the park lists several more. Once you’ve reviewed the National Park Service’s safety tips, get ready for some awesome hiking. Some of my favorite trails are:

  • Wall Street Mill, where you can see the remnants of a gold ore crushing mill and the signs of Joshua Tree’s gold mining history, including rusted-out automobiles and a gravestone marking the site of a shootout between gold prospectors.

  • Desert Queen Mine, the site of an active gold mine over 100 years ago. Mine shafts are visible (most are covered with grates, but stay on the trail to stay safe), as are odds and ends such as pieces of machinery and huge barrels for the cyanide that was used to separate the gold from the ore.

  • Mastodon Peak, named by miners for its supposed resemblance to a mastodon head, is a great option if you want to explore the southern part of the park. At its summit, it offers beautiful views of the Salton Sea.

  • Panorama Loop, convenient to Black Rock Campground. It’s in a lesser-traveled area of the park and features pinyon-juniper woodlands, a forest ecosystem not commonly found in the rest of the park. Sweeping vistas of Joshua Tree make this trail a perfect one for sunrises or sunsets.

Hiking trail in Joshua Tree National Park. Photo copyright 2018, Anna Boudinot

What more could you ask for – scenic, historical, archeological, environmental, ecological, wildlife, cultural, scientific, educational and recreational values, all for just a $20 entrance fee. (If you’re in the mood to splurge, $55 will get you a yearly pass, and if you’re on a tight budget, check out the park on one of its free admission days.) Perhaps even more important than the above benefits is the refreshing sensation of having traveled a world away from Los Angeles, even though you’re still right next door.

Check out my posts on Pioneertown, the Noah Purifoy Desert Art Museum, the World-Famous Crochet Museum, and the Integratron if you’d like to embark on a full desert weekend.