101 Things to Do in LA: Los Angeles Maritime Museum

Los Angeles is known for a lot of things, but did you know it used to be known for canned tuna?

The Los Angeles Maritime Museum. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot

San Pedro, Los Angeles’ southernmost neighborhood, and Terminal Island, which is today split between the cities of Los Angeles and Long Beach, had the busiest commercial fishing and canning industry in the country for most of the 1900s. Sardines, mackerel, and tuna were caught and canned by tens of thousands of fishermen and cannery workers. The technique of canning tuna was actually pioneered in Los Angeles! StarKist and Chicken of the Sea were founded there; by 1946, Terminal Island had the highest tuna production volume in the world. San Pedro fishermen implemented innovations that are still in use today, such as nylon nets and techniques for refrigerating fish onboard the ships.

Immigrants from Japan, Croatia, Yugoslavia, and Italy made up the bulk of fishermen and cannery workers, and San Pedro is still home to many Croatian and Italian families who can trace their roots back to the early 1900s. The Japanese residents, most of whom lived on Terminal Island, were unfairly incarcerated in concentration camps* during WWII. The US government, in a racism-fueled panic, mistakenly believed that Japanese-Americans were a threat to national security. To see amazing old photographs of the Japanese village, canneries, and fishing boats, visit this website. It’s kind of hard to navigate: scroll nearly to the bottom, or search the page for the word “cannery.”

Inside the LA Maritime Museum. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot

By the 1970s, few people were buying canned mackerel, sardines had disappeared, and the US tuna industry had largely been decimated. Foreign competitors overtook the fishing industry and American corporations were all too willing to open up canneries in countries or US territories where labor was cheaper and environmental laws were lax.Today the only sign of LA’s contribution to commercial fishing is the tuna on the county seal.

The above history lives on at the Los Angeles Maritime Museum through photographs, videos, nets, model boats, and StarKist paraphernalia, as well as other artifacts like a cannery worker’s uniform. It’s astonishing to realize that an industry thrived in LA for decades and then vanished almost without a trace. The museum itself is part of maritime history, since it’s inside a former ferry terminal constructed in the 1940s as part of the WPA

Trophies from the Fisherman’s Fiesta. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot

The museum is quite large, something that’s not immediately apparent upon entering. The exhibits stretch up a long winding ramp to a second level, culminating in a large children’s play area that offers nautical games and toys. Dozens of model boats are on view throughout the museum, including the actual model used for the film The Poseidon Adventure, as well as a few actual boats, such as the former Army tugboat Angels Gate. The museum displays an abundance of maritime relics, including a lighthouse lens, a ship’s wheel, and macramé created by seamen to pass the time on voyages (it helped that they were skilled knot-tiers). One display case shows trophies and ribbons from the “Fisherman’s Fiesta,” an annual event along the LA Harbor from the 1940s through 70s. The fishing fleet was blessed by a priest to ensure a bountiful catch, and thousands of spectators watched a parade of decorated boats. Celebrities were even known to attend.

Diving gear at the Los Angeles Maritime Museum. Photo copyright 2019 by Anna Boudinot

Another fascinating exhibit, cutely called “20,000 Jobs Under the Sea,” highlights the century-plus history of commercial and fishery diving in Los Angeles. Diving gear, equipment, and photos and videos of commercial diving work showcases how incredibly difficult and dangerous the work can be, and also highlights some of the remarkable feats of engineering involved. One project entailed the construction of a 1500-foot sewage pipeline at the bottom of the ocean – not something with a lot of room for error.

In addition to being filled with interesting things you probably never knew existed, the museum is also worth visiting for its location. Perched right on the harbor, it has a beautiful view of the Vincent Thomas Bridge and the Port of Los Angeles. Check it out soon, because in September 2019 it will close for two years as part of a revitalization project planned for the LA waterfront.

 

While in San Pedro, stop by the Fort MacArthur Museum and Angels Gate Cultural Center.

*Note: I use the term “concentration camps” based on the definition that is agreed upon by the Japanese American National Museum and the American Jewish Committee. Read more here.